This is more stuff to think about before deciding on what wiring to use for your transmission. Install the new filter into the transmission by gently pushing up on it. Shift kits generally include fixes to problems that occur over time - valve bores wear out, stick, etc - ie. The first step is to use a short piece of wire to connect the 2 male tab terminals, thus making a circuit bridge. . Anyone else ever here of misfires causing the lockup to disengage??. Plus the truck didn't act up one bit during their test drive on the interstate in it.
Place the new transmission pan gasket over the transmission pan, aligning all holes. The last step is wiring. I've hooked up at least 4 700s. I'm no tranny expert, but I believe this to be true. Note: If your foot is on the brake the light will be out. . Jump on to discuss axles, suspensions, engines, mudders, 4x4s and more.
Another words, I want a switch so I can over ride the compter and lock it when ever I wnat it locked. Wiring a Lockup-Converter Pressure Switch Wiring A Lockup-Converter Pressure Switch Written by: Mike Ervin Peek under a hot rod today and it's not uncommon to find an automatic overdrive resting between the frame rails. Just so you will know, most of the time the brake cancel switch is also a cancel switch for the cruise control, if you have cruise. Or you could splice it in between the 4th Gear Switch and the solenoid to have it act in both positions of the dash switch. Early 700R4's locked in 3rd also.
Normally it would lock above 75mph under all conditions, unless it was floored and it was in 3rd. Since I leave in two days, maybe I'll try a quick flush and filter change and put the black in and see if it works. Secure all 16-gauge wire to the vehicle with zip ties to prevent any hanging wire. My last truck, an Excursion, had a switch. My biggest concern is that we're headed for a 3K trip from Utah to Dallas and back and I don't want to cause any additional problems, or especially suffer a catastrophic failure along the way.
I ran the truck to town to a tranny shop and had them take a look. With the Sonnaz hardened valve and hardened sleeve in there it will be a very, very long time before that valve is cycled enough to wear the bore again. This feature is often controlled by the vehicle's computer when certain conditions are met, however this can be bypassed, and a toggle switch can be used to control torque converter lockup anytime the driver wishes. My old car did that. Pig see's highway speeds very rarely. I have a 2002 TrailBlazer 4x4 with 174K miles on it. I think your best bet is to leave it alone.
The stall is exactly what they advertise and the Lock Up portion of the converter is dead on. The contacts are connected whenever the transmission is in 3rd gear. You could in theory substitute a self-grounding switch here as well and only have two wires coming out of the transmission case, but I'm not sure at what pressures the various switches trigger at. There's nothing wrong with the car. This lead is connected to the solenoid power lead inside the transmission, and gets power when the solenoid has power applied to it.
The pressure switch is located on the righthand side of the trans. Then connect to the new single-pin connector at the transmission arrow, photo C. Remember these dont think for thereselves its all match up. The brake switch isn't the culprit. There are a total of four possible pressure switches, three possible wires coming into the transmission, and a solenoid to do the actual work of locking up the torque converter.
The dumbest part is the goofy one is hard wired, so I soldered my new one instead of using the supplied screw together connectors. . I'll have to research the pressure switch I was trying to use a bit more. The factory installed a couple of different types of pressure switches depending on the application. You don't really have to use the delay valve, but I already had it so why not? I did a bit of data logging today and it does show misfires going on, it doesn't trip the code for them, but when the lockup disengages it doesn't register them on my screen until the lockup engages again, which makes me feel there is a correlation between the two. One switch will have four wires and the other switch will have two wires and a vacuum hose. I believe all things said to be true.
Install a female tab connector on the switch end and attach to center terminal. On a non-stock hookup you may not get it exactly right. Thanks for all the advice! Last have you went to a dealer to see if there is a recalibration for it. I had a heck of a time figuring this out from available information on the internet and eventually had to buy a factory manual for the year and model vehicle my donor transmission came from to confirm all the details. My 89 isn't this way.