If Mazda really wanted to compete a little better with the S2000 and such in a straight line, they could have better optimized this system to get the best torque curve. But nobody has dynoed the difference with a turbo setup. I know the old one was bad thanks to CheeseHelmet and the service manual; no resistance between the contact points. Regular 140k maintenance was also performed. Be careful not to break off anything and leave it in the line. Low 200s was possible with turbos.
No parts replaced 48000 mi Wrong wheels ordered, so not installed. If they do, they can be cleaned and brought back to life. Thank you kindly for your time yet again! Root cause was not fixing leaky valve cover gasket in a timely manner. Replaced radiator, hoses, and thermostat. For those with the manual, its on page 01-13-19. Essentially this P0051 code means that the resistance of the heater circuit is lower than normal.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another read: P030x codes also will set a P0300 code. But nobody has dynoed the difference with a turbo setup. The actuator I pionted out in the first set of pics kind of burryed behind everything looks to be the same as the one on the left side of this pic. Will not start until cooled off. Either way, it's not a big deal. P0171 engine running too lean can be caused by many things on these cars. It has a downward facing fuse that can fall out, and it isn't on the circuit diagram for the car.
All in all, your assessments are pretty spot-on. My concern is that the new part measures 40 ohms. Aftermarket sensors can be less reliable and of poorer quality not always, but more often. More info can be found. If that is the case the Mazdaspeed Miatas would be the only cars to date with it.
Here's a link to some pics I took today whilst under the hood. But is that really what we want? They will read the code for free. Repaired under warranty by Mazda. This would be the next step. Belts, coolant, and water pump replaced during this operation. The faulty part was replaced.
Needed to be replaced coolant bypass line worn out due to age. And most important, will it work? The other I'm not sure. I had it inspected last month and it passed, the next day my engine light came on. That picture with the top half of the manifold really helped me visualize what I was looking for. Just disconnect the line and pull the orifice tube out of the line. You can continue to drive the vehicle but should get it checked and rectified asap because this could be due to oil pressure problem and you run the risk of damaging the engine if that is the case. Bought two replacements and installed.
Old solenoid valve had high resistance and wouldn't switch vacuum ports when power was applied. Of course it was only street tuned. It looked awful so it wasn't a bad thing to get that over with. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. No amount of cleaning can fix a rusty valve stem. Air intake hose replaced which seems to have fixed it. Replaced two spark wires and plugs.
Of course it was only street tuned. Replacement was easy and straightforward. You can find them on ebay for about 20 bucks. Idler pully had backed off losing tension. I drew some arrows and such as to what I??? High resistance, wouldn't pass vacuum correctly. Usually the actuator valve is stuck closed. Don't know exact odometer reading.
In most cases, that resistance level must fall below 0. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. Diagnosis was not easy - Replaced Cam sensor to fix it. . If we have a manifold like this.